I recently visited the exhibition at the Fashion and Textiles museum “Chanel to Westwood.” It is an exploration of the knitwear clacked up by some of the biggest names in fashion.” The space demonstrates how shapes, styles and pattern in knitwear changed over the decades, from Coco Chanel’s neat twin sets – which introduced jersey to the world of couture – to the vibrant, multicoloured knits that came out of the ‘make do and mend’ movement in the ’40s. Whether machine-produced for the general market or hand-knitted during wartime rationing, the garments on display give a sense of the emotional investment that went into their creation. That is something almost unique to knitwear, in my opinion.
Dennis Nothdruft, the museum’s curator, believes the “basic functionality of knitwear” loses out against the glamour of couture. But with knitwear, especially if knitted yourself, every step and stitch in construction is known, seen and touched – the very same characteristics of haute couture, which makes it even harder to understand why knitwear suffers by comparison. Before visiting this exhibition my understanding and passion for knitting was present. My mum had previously studied knitwear design at central saint martins and had produced some amazing samples. Over the years as she saw me follow a similar pathway as her, we began to look at them together and she taught me some basic skills. I decided that my project could become a lot more personal due to this aspect, and could be explored in detail.
Although everything on display was amazing in its own right, something that really grabbed my attention for a potential narrative idea was the traditional knits. In comparison to the other garments they aren't instantly amazing, but they represent cultural identity and tradition. The Fair Isle is a traditional knitting technique used to create patterns with multiple colours. It is named after Fair Isle, a tiny island in the north of Scotland, that forms part of the Shetland islands. Fair Isle knitting gained a considerable popularity when the Prince of Wales (later to become Edward VIII) wore Fair Isle tank tops in public in 1921. Traditional Fair Isle patterns have a limited palette of five or so colours, use only two colours per row, are worked in the round, and limit the length of a run of any particular colour.
My initial idea was focused on knitwear. I don't know a lot about knitwear but I am interested in the making of it. I like the way it can be placed on the body in unconventional ways and still look amazing. To place knit on the body in this way would be an aspect of diversity I could explore. I would use knit different ways in which they are normally used or accepted and display them in a non-traditional way.
Reflects diversity through clothing rather than using "obvious" model choices for topic
Experiment with location and studio photography
Experiment with movement
Visit the V&A
I took these comments into consideration and decided to pursue this idea.
Another idea I came up with was to explore the idea of astrology in the news. Recently NASA have made huge breakthroughs is scientific history, which is an area that interests me. I started to look into space like photo shoots, involving a lot of pre production e.g. hair and makeup. I am confident in computer based production and would be happy to collaborate with hair and makeup artists to achieve this concept.
For this unit we must develop the ability to tell stories through visual means. This unit explores the power of storytelling within fashion communication, specifically for editorial fashion images. Our brief is to create a narrative fashion editorial that addresses issues of diversity. Fashion images are often criticised for their dependence on rigid beauty ideals that exclude groups of people based on issues including but not limited to age, race, and body type. This brief is being run in conjunction with the All Walks Beyond the Catwalk Diversity NOW! 2015 campaign supported by i-D online.
Narrative: a representation of a particular situation or process in such a way as toreflect or conform to anoverarchingsetofaimsor values:
Diversity:
The concept of diversity encompasses acceptance, respect and understanding that each individual is unique,and recognizing our individual differences. These can be alongthe dimensions of race, ethnicity, gender, sexual orientation, socio-economic status, age, physical abilities, religious beliefs,political beliefs, or other ideologies. It is the explorationof these differences in a safe, positive, and nurturing environment.It is about understanding each other and moving beyondsimple tolerance to embracing and celebrating therich dimensions of diversity contained within each individual.
I have started off this unit by exploring different Mastheads online. I received the latest issue of Tank magazine for Christmas, I have never actually had my own copy of this magazine until now and I really enjoyed the contemporary approach to fashion. Included in the magazine is a variety ofcoexistingcultural themes, such as art, architecture, fashion, current affairs, and music. The magazine has acquired an "idiosyncratic, distinct voice through design, critical approach to writing and eclectic style". Acquiring this magazine encouraged me to do some of my own research into it, and through this process I was connected to multiple different magazines that I had not come across before, such as - "10" , "Purple Fashion" and "Soon international". Although magazines such as VOGUE and ELLE have immense credibility in the fashion-sphere, I feel that my style does not collate. As you can see through my mood board, I have chosen magazines that celebrate emerging talent, culture and youth with a bit more "edge".
After researching mastheads I decided to really get a feel for some of the magazines I had initially looked into. With assistance from the internet I started collecting editorial style imagery from each magazine. This process helped me to identify which style Id like to adopt for my own editorial style shoot, and which mastheads didn't really coincide with the style I was looking for. I have managed to narrow down my options to a handful e.g. Dazed&Confused, I.D, Garage, 10, Love, Tank and Another magazine. To narrow my options down further I intend to view these in person and purchase either recent copies or past copies on eBay.
As a group, look through the group work you have created so far and prepare three potential sets of 5/6 images for critique in next week's session. The same image/s can be used more than once, and the sets can combine images from different prompts.
The images below are what we chose as a group that we thought could work well together as a final set. We took these images to the peer critique and later decided which ones we were going to use for the final 6.
What was mentioned in the critique:
The images should not be restrained to squares (although this display was simply presented for our blog)
The images without a face work better with the designer
The monochromatic tint on all the images work really well
Some images work better with different sets of images
We went away after the critique and thought about what our peers and tutors had commented and used these point to improve. It was quite hard for our group to decide which images to choose ,as it was made clear in the critique most of our imagery was strong.
As a Group create a series of 5/6 images that represent your assigned designers aesthetic using only type.The series of images can incorporate drawing, collage, photography, digital manipulation in any way you as a group choose, but must be created entirely from letters and words.
Individually I started to look at simplistic but creative type faces on google. As a group we decide we needed to keep it simple to represent 1205's aesthetic, so I investigated very monochrome designs. Although 1205's current typeface is as simple as Ariel font, I thought it would be interesting to play around with ideas to make it more "fun". I came across loads of 3D fonts that would work really well, creating shadows and texture, I felt that texture was an important factor in our final typography style. To move away from my preferred medium of photoshop I decided to help create physical 3D font using card. At the time brown and black paper were the only colours available to work with, which hindered the final aesthetic. We did persuade the idea using photoshop but agreed it didn't look right.
We all decided that Substance, Purity and Restraint were perfect words to work with, as well as the brands iconic 1205 "logo". We decided this after our visit to the store, noticing that these words were the ones displayed on the garment labels.
Using trial and error - similar to a technique displayed above - I accidentally discovered the beauty of embossing. With only a week left until the final hand in date it seemed unrealistic to attempt to create this idea physically. I turned to the editing program illustrator and drew a very thin typography by hand and embossed the letters. With a white on white aesthetic I think the outcome was perfect for the brand. I can also imagine the idea being printed for garment labels. Below (In Red) shows my individual contribution to the final 5 images.
(GROUPS FINAL IMAGES, Highlighted Red - Authors Own)
Set design includes all the scenery, furniture, backdrop and props an audience see. A set designer's job is to design physical surroundings that gives the audience information about the brands concept.
suggest the style and tone of the brand
create mood and atmosphere
give clues as to the specific time and place of the action
Ive decided to contrast to the previous style of work i have recently looked at. Looking into the set design of brand "House of Hackney" House Of Hackney is a clothing and interiors label specialising in British made goods with a store on Shoreditch high street, based in the East London shopping district of Central London. It plays on traditional English design and the products, with the exception of the Italian bed linens, are made in Britain. House of Hackney is a print-based lifestyle brand and each season the brand emulates a specific print throughout the store.
Set Designer Suzanne Beirne has designed amazing sets for House of Hackney editorial shoots. They are fun and exciting and i think they represent the brand really well. She has also created Window displays one i like in particular was the one inspired by the great British seaside.
"How did you bring it to life?"
"I was really inspired by the beach scene in the film Death in Venice and so tried to create a story around the products, a feeling that our girl was having a great time on the beach and had just left her deck chair to go for a dip in the sea. Although as much as this product looks great on the beach, it would work just as well in a garden. I set about making the props that would help set the scene, like covering a rubber ring in the Palmeral fabric, as well as some retro sunglasses and a bucket and spade, then I created a House of Hackney green cocktail complete with Palmeral umbrella and collated product like the note books, wash bags and ice cream. Once I had everything I set it all up to look like the Hackney girl had been enjoying the sunshine, writing notes, drinking and generally chilling on her lounger, I wanted it to look luxurious, chic and decadent, everything that the brand stands for. The scene was completed with the sand on the floor and the giant Cacti."
Prompt 4:
As a group, Explore set design and bring in a number of LARGE scale materials that can be used for creating sets.
Together finalise/manipulate/add/transform your set design images. You may develop your images anyway you choose, but consider how to enhance the aesthetic of your designer by working with the form, colour and texture you created. The images can also incorporate additional drawing, collage, digital manipulation in any way you as a group choose.
As a group, identify a series of materials/objects that you associate with your designer.
Using the processes explored in the Week 3 lecture & workshop, use these materials/objects to create a series of images which represent your assigned designer's aesthetic.
Experiment with non photographic processes and methods in your constructions, such as collage, drawing, painting, screen printing etc.
I visited the Tate Modern a few weeks before we were set the 3rd prompt which was to use chosen materials/objects to create a series of images which would represent our designers aesthetic. I visited the retrospective exhibition displaying the works of Kazimir Severinovich Malevich. Malevich was the founder of geometric abstract art and the originator of the avant-garde, Suprematist movement.
His early experiments as a painter led him towards the invention of supermatism a bold visual language of abstract geometric shapes and stark colours, epitomised by the Black Square. One of the defining works of Modernism, the painting was revealed to the world after months of secrecy and was hidden again for almost half a century after its creator?s death. Visiting this exhibition really helped me to think out side the "photography-box" and consider representing our designer through collage and different mediums. Iin the workshop I feel like I didn't illustrate Paula Gebase's work, but what it did help me do is work freely with different materials. I later came home and reflected on my visit to the Tate modern, it helped me to create images that depicted geometry and simplicity through collage. These two aspects are highlighted in my designers work, as well as tactility, and to exploit this concept i decided to simplify previous images used for the project and replace the simplified line drawing with mixed media. I used a verity of different materials such as paint, print, pencil, pen, corrugated card, fabric etc? I feel that utilising and exhausting previous experiments is useful to create new ideas, I ended up rather happy with my personal final outcomes for this prompt
(Authors Own - First Attempt at Representing 1205s Aesthetic Through Collage)
(Authors Own Edited Response Representing 1205s Aesthetic Through Collage)
(GROUPS FINAL IMAGES, Highlighted Red - Authors Own)
After visiting a number of exhibitions together we got a feel for the type of images is we wanted to make. It was the general idea to stay away from photography seeing as we has already explored that area competently. As some people in the group were more able than others to create physical imagery rather than technology-based imagery, it was a real learning curve to some of us. We think it really helped our group as a whole because we all had completely different ideas of what to create, where to start and what to base it on. Some people, admittedly had no experience in this field what so ever so found it difficult, but as a group we all helped out to ensure that everyone had a say in the final images.
As a group we had to determine an emotion or feeling that can relate to our assigned designer's work. The aim was to create 5-6 photographic images to represent the work in relation to this chosen emotion or feeling. .
(Authors Own Moodboard - iImages Google)
To begin with, as a group, we came up with a bunch of words we instantly thought of when looking at Paula Gerbase' work. The general consensus was that the monochrome tones and simple photography used to promote her collections, gave it a melancholic feel. We also came to an agreement that the collection wasn't particularly sad or depressing but it was calm and comforting with a sombre approach. We considered most of the initial words, trying to criticise each one constructively until we found the perfect medium between comfort, relaxing, solemn, quiet etc… The outcome was the word Tranquility...
We conducted a photo shoot soon after we agreed on an emotion/feeling. We took inspiration from different imagery, looking closely at interiors, photo shoots and textiles. We each brought images we thought related and created a mood board that would help direct us in the studio. To make sure the shoot represented 1205's aesthetic we went on a shopping trip to Westfield and purchased clothes (to return) that would demonstrate this. We made sure each person in our group had a part to play in the final outcome. Whilst everyone had a go at taking some shots, we decided that it would be more efficient to give everyone individual roles too:
Guy too responsibility of lighting and mood
Yoon helped with makeup, Hair and photography
Anushka took charge of photography and location
Seunghee and I styled the outfits and modelled
Prior to the photo shoot I visited luxury heritage fashion retailer Browns on South Molten street to see 1205's collection. I thought it would really help me to get a feel for the brand and experience the garments. I tried some of the items on so I could analyse quality, fit and style. The visit was really helpful and insightful, the clothes are a very modern and organic twist on tailoring and they are beautifully crafted using unusual materials. Visiting the store has inspired me to create a shoot on location with new garments. I have recently ordered some clothes on the online store Asos so that I can create this experimental shoot i have in mind
I think the majority of our images strongly related to Gerbase' work, but we had to narrow 380 images down to 5 to meet the brief criteria. Everyone chose 5 images out of the 380 taken and edited them to their own personal standard. We shared the images and deliberated as a team what worked well together as a series. To our advantage most of us had similar ideas so it wasn't difficult to decide. To the right were some of the images I edited myself, I decided that maybe the monochrome outcome would be too obvious. Instead I experimented with creating a sense of tranquility though blue tones whilst sticking to the theme and aesthetic of 1205.
It was difficult being in front of the camera rather that behind it where I am more comfortable, but to our groups advantage I knew the desired appearance of the shoot. Knowing exactly what we required made it slightly easier to define poses and necessary props / lighting. Something else I found difficult was not being able to have my creative input on the framing of some shots. Overall I think the images we have presented as our finals represent the Designer and the word perfectly.
Final Images:
(Authors Own Editing, Styling & Photography of image 1&3)
As a group, choose 5/6 words that describe your designer’s aesthetic.
Together as a team, create 5/6 images that visualise the words you have chosen. It is up to the group to decide how the images are made, what materials you use and how you collaborate together to make them.
As I chose the words Geometrical and Tactile I decided to use these words to experiment with. I looked for geometric architectural structures and/or patterns and simply photographed them. Photoshop manipulation is something I feel confident using, so i decided to use this skill to manipulate some of my imagery. I also experimented with manipulating some of 1205's previous photo shoots so that the group could get an idea of how it can work for the brand.
(GROUPS FINAL IMAGES, Highlighted Red - Authors Own)
(Authors Own)
Although our final images appear to be just photographical, a number of us did experiment with different mediums. We thought that as "Tactile" was one of our descriptive words, we would try to portray this concept through manipulation. As we had already used photography as our initial response we thought it would be silly to start over. We decided to use paper manipulation both physical and photoshop based to achieve this concept. We explored many avenues of paper manipulation: Crushing, Burning, Tearing, Crunching even simple cut and paste. We discovered that some worked better than others based on the collection.
In addition to that, we found a medium that gives tactile property – Moulding Paste. Modeling paste is an acrylic medium that is filled with solid material. The result is a thick white substance that can create a controlled textural surface. With brush or any tools, we can make the texture that we want and leave it dry. When it dries, it becomes an opaque white when it dries. After that, we can paint, write, or do anything on top of the texture. Therefore, this is considered to be a good medium to be incorporated in following prompts.
For the word "Geometric" we came up with some ideas for pencil drawing where we looked into unique building structures in different parts of london and roughly drew them on a sketchbook(which we carried everywhere).
We found it quite hard to represent the word "Androgynous" without using the human form (which we didn't want to use at this stage in the project). So close to giving up with the word an image was created through printing technique using a gloss varnish.
In groups we were asked to research an allocated NEWGEN designer with the sight of produceing a group portfolio of 5 images produced over term one. We will be carrying out ongoing research and experimentation using different mediums. Each week we will be given a self directed task and a group prompt to create imagery.
PAULA GERBASE - 1205
"People call a woman in trousers androgynous, but they've been wearing them for so long that for me it doesn't really count. A better term is unisex"
"I never wanted my name up in lights," says Paula Gerbase, the founder of 1205, explaining her deliberately anonymous brand. "As a label we focus on the clothes." She purposefully doesn?t put her name on the label, instead opting for 1205, which in the past she has claimed is her birth date or the date the label was established, neither of which she will settle on, stating instead that it ?means anything to anyone and is about anonymity?.Gerbase's work is often described as androgynous. While her silhouettes tend to be loose and her collections designed for both genders, Gerbase considers the term outdated.
Because Magazine
Fashion Features Director at Porter
Kay Barron
Aesthetic: essential, high quality, comfortable, elegant and unisex clothes. Attention to detail and a focus on fabric retain a femininity in bespoke tailored structures and masculine cuts. 1205 proposes to deconstruct the binary gender system in
fashion. Her design doesn't look for the femininity in menswear or the masculinity in womenswear, but instead aims to overcome the paradigm to get a pure and timeless but smart and wearable elegance. A straight palette of navy, black, white and every shade of grey characterises the entire collection, where Gerbase adds impeccable tailoring and skilful refinements to loose edges and softer shapes. The quality of the fabrics, like classic wool, jersey and mohair mixed with nylon and silk emphasises the stunning craftsmanship in these creationsFrom top to toe, Gerbase's pieces seem to express a widespread desire for continuity from a man's wardrobe which ceases tobe borrowed and eventually can simply be shared.
Geometry:
1205 is influenced by the formal precision of geometry and the vital elegance of nature; starched collar stands lend a formality to otherwise eased volumes and raised textures, coats reinterpret tailored constructions in technical fabrics, formal trousers are offered in new shapes, knitwear features 1205's distinct asymmetry
"To me masculinity is about attention to construction, how a shoulder is put together or the type of canvas I am using. The feminine aspect can be about a contrast of Textures. Texture is very sensual I think. It's this interpretation of unisex that I like to explore."
1205 designer Paula Gerbase talks to Dal Chodha about redefining old-fashion notions of gender.
By Dal Chodha
Her clothes don't scream "I'm standing out, look at me!", instead they seem to whisper with a poetic charm. "Meet me, touch me, try me, I'll be with you forever, and you won't regret it".
Androgyny:
Tailoring is minimal and restrained - meaning 1205's pieces give a graceful aesthetic that is no-nonsense but relaxed. When talking about the lack of fussy detailing, Gerbase explained
"Everything else around us is so busy and if you let go of all that stuff, people notice. Clothes are about framing a personality and although you're making a choice about what you are wearing, ultimately, it really isn't ever about the clothes."
Interview-Naked Fashions:
Gerbase studied at Central Saint Martins, where she believes taught her “strength.” From there she went on to apprentice at the prestigious Savile Row with Hardy Amies atelier which allowed her to progress to a creative director job at Kilgour for five years. Savile Row is widely known as the Crème de la Crème of fine, British tailoring and it was here where she explored and acquired new knowledge.
“The subtle thought process and continuity of a mans wardrobe has always interested me”
“sharpening her senses for detail, trims and cuts”
“I have always loved mens clothing for its attention to detail, focus on fabric, cut and considered construction, and have worn mens pieces for as long as I can remember.”
“playing with contrasts of formal/casual fabrics, shapes and [as always] introducing new fabrics such as waterproof flannel…as ever, the focus was on subtle details and texture contrasts.”
Fabrics are a huge part of the 1205 brand as there are no prints and extreme cuts to distract from the composition. When choosing fabrics Gerbase looks for thoughtful, intelligent fabrics developed by the best fabric mills in the world.
Interview Naked Fashions
Interview with designer Paula Gerbase (1205)
Lauren Johnstone
SS13:
"For Spring/Summer 13, I've not only embraced my Savile Row side but for the first time I've looked at the country in which I was born, Brazil. It's the first time ever that I've been inspired by Brazil. Normally I look at architecture a great deal and it tends to be German but for this season I looked at Brazilian modernism of the 50s and how it included a natural element, both the build itself and the natural environment are considered. I was interested in the fact that they always have an architect and an urban planner on all builds who looks after the planting and green credentials. There is a lot of green in this collection. Up to this point, I've been so controlled with my palette and this time green was the big accent. In terms of research, as I'm not looking at it from a foreigners perspective, I knew where I was going, where to look and of course my family helped. Some of the shots are of my home town. From prints that I designed based on insulated walls and wall paneling that are so common in Brazil and these evolved in to jacquards. "
Mood Board For SS13 Collection
"The real starting point was finding a book called Building Brasilia by this French photographer Marcel Gautherot. Gautherot documented the entire process, from desert to the completed city. From untouched grassland to skeletal structures to ultimately the realisation of a modern capital and touching on the works who played their part in shaping it. It's an amazing book. I was drawn to the human side of architecture."
Style Salvage
Blog
AW14
For autumn/winter 2014, Gerbase took inspiration from sculptor Barbara Hepworth and the artists who colonised St Ives in Cornwall during the second world war, living alongside the local fishermen. The references are clear in smocks, overalls, fishing jumpers, blanket coats and wide-legged trousers, in leather, mohair and marino.
Gerbase loves the idea ? which she sees as typically masculine ? of curating a wardrobe over a lifetime, instead of buying clothes that put the wearer's body on show for others. Her label isn't showy, but every garment includes a "little code" or "hidden message": small, deliberate 'mistakes' "like the wrong-coloured right cuff or an unexpected internal pocket," she says: "With these surprises I try to communicate with the person wearing the clothes in subtle ways."
